CHOKH is north of Derbent and Kubachi, and a relatively short ride from Gunib. Chokh is also the gateway to the abandoned village of Gamsut'l, which was our destination. Arriving late to the village, there were no official places to stay - a common scenario travelling in Dagestan. We were given a name of the village mayor by the Dagestani who gave us a ride. Spotted a young man, and we asked for the mayor, but only to be told that he is is not in the village. Next, we were to