KUBACHI : the craftsman of Dagestan

November 29, 2017

KUBACHI in Dagestan is inland from Derbent, and they are famous for for their crafts, namely Kubachi ware, a style of Persian pottery. This destination was approached from Gunib in the north, hitch-hiking through the mountiains, which ended walking for 17 km for that day! We got picked up by a Kubachi native Sirush, then hosted by English teacher Zakaria, and the countless hospital people we encountered there. Kubachi is a subgroup of the Dargins, and they have their own language, which is Kubachi. Ladies here dressed in their traditional white scarf, typifies Kubachi. Everyone in Kubachi is involved in some form of craftsmanship, and they are proud of that tradition.

KUBACHI TOWER

 

Kubachi tower is the centre of the old town. The village flourishes, with much expansion of the village concentrated in the new town. There are however, many who returned and were living in the old town below the tower.

GUARDIAN OF THE TOWER

 

Fatimah is the guardian of the tower, with roles as key keeper and guide.

BIKA BIKA BIKA

 

Encounters with Kubachi ladies, and coincidentally, all named Bika.

MEN FROM THE MARKET

 

AT THE FOOT OF KUBACHI TOWER

 

Rasul Kasumov is a craftsman, and pictured below is his house at the bottom of Kubachi's tower. He has lived in Uzbekistan for many years, before returning to Kubachi with his family. His grandfather was already in Uzbekistan. He is not alone, many of Kubachi's people were in Uzbekistan for craftman trade, and they lived in this part of Kubachi after their return.

ZAKARIA

 

Zakaria is a renown English teacher of Kubachi's school. One of the rare people who speaks English in Dagestan, he is also my host in Kubachi

KUBACHI SCHOOL 

 

We were invited to Kubachi's school, and espcially to attend Zakaria's English class. Responses from the students were fantastic, with students asking why we did not come to their class!

SIRUSH & THE BROTHERS

 

Sirush, Mohamad, Zakaria were friends since primary school! Thats 50 years ago. Sirush oversees an upcoming building project designed using Finnish architecture. All of them are involved in this project.

my story of Kubachi started with all these people, from left to right : Sirush, Kim, Milan, Zakaria, Mohamad

 

 

 

 

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