KUBACHI in Dagestan is inland from Derbent, and they are famous for for their crafts, namely Kubachi ware, a style of Persian pottery. This destination was approached from Gunib in the north, hitch-hiking through the mountiains, which ended walking for 17 km for that day! We got picked up by a Kubachi native Sirush, then hosted by English teacher Zakaria, and the countless hospital people we encountered there. Kubachi is a subgroup of the Dargins, and they have their own language, which is Kubachi. Ladies here dressed in their traditional white scarf, typifies Kubachi. Everyone in Kubachi is involved in some form of craftsmanship, and they are proud of that tradition.
KUBACHI TOWER
Kubachi tower is the centre of the old town. The village flourishes, with much expansion of the village concentrated in the new town. There are however, many who returned and were living in the old town below the tower.
GUARDIAN OF THE TOWER
Fatimah is the guardian of the tower, with roles as key keeper and guide.
BIKA BIKA BIKA
Encounters with Kubachi ladies, and coincidentally, all named Bika.
MEN FROM THE MARKET
AT THE FOOT OF KUBACHI TOWER
Rasul Kasumov is a craftsman, and pictured below is his house at the bottom of Kubachi's tower. He has lived in Uzbekistan for many years, before returning to Kubachi with his family. His grandfather was already in Uzbekistan. He is not alone, many of Kubachi's people were in Uzbekistan for craftman trade, and they lived in this part of Kubachi after their return.
ZAKARIA
Zakaria is a renown English teacher of Kubachi's school. One of the rare people who speaks English in Dagestan, he is also my host in Kubachi
KUBACHI SCHOOL
We were invited to Kubachi's school, and espcially to attend Zakaria's English class. Responses from the students were fantastic, with students asking why we did not come to their class!
SIRUSH & THE BROTHERS
Sirush, Mohamad, Zakaria were friends since primary school! Thats 50 years ago. Sirush oversees an upcoming building project designed using Finnish architecture. All of them are involved in this project.
my story of Kubachi started with all these people, from left to right : Sirush, Kim, Milan, Zakaria, Mohamad
